CONTEMPORARY SUITING
A journey through women’s suiting with a contemporary take for Spring/ Summer 2018

During the late 1970s stretching over to the 1980s, business- inclined women began to dress to assert their authority. Despite the tales of women dressing in masculine ways to fit into boy’s clubs or even be taken seriously- they have thrived over the years by adding a sheer sensuality to power dressing. As women have and continue to progress in the corporate world so has their style. There is a certain level of consideration required when designing women’s clothes, to ensure that they feel like a woman too. Furthermore, the physical manifestation of power differs according to the eye of the beholder. This is a popular debate amongst fashion pushing a power trip. Who is entitled to say how authority is articulated through clothing? But it goes without saying that feeling the part certainly gives you the confidence to play the part.
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The evolution of women fitting in to a man’s world has taken us by stride, bringing a seductive sensuality to the table. The historic concept for women dressing to assert their authority further in predominantly male environments is now past us. Putting all gender equality arguments aside, most women now dress for themselves. Dressing for power no longer exists confined to the realms of the financial gap or the standard two-piece. It is liberated from hem lines and shoulder pads, now existing as an outfit turned to, to feel powerful. With various takes on contemporary suiting today, power dressing treasures its well deserved spotlight even throughout the ever-changing fashions.
Since knowledge is also power, it’s notable to recognise the initial reign of the suit. Pioneer Coco Chanel designed her first jacket with a matching ankle-length skirt in 1914. This was post-war and created specifically for women in the workplace. Marcel Rochas took the daring risk to go a few steps further in the 1930s, designing wide-shouldered jacket with trousers. This was controversial considering the laws again women wearing trousers in America at the time. But this didn’t stop them. Yves Saint Laurent followed with a sexy transformation of the suit, debuting “Le Smoking” in 1966. This was a tuxedo-style suit that soon became the epitome of sex appeal. These movements made a firm impact on the perception of women’s fashion today- breaking moulds at a time when the mere idea of women wearing trousers was disapproved of. This will eternally be admired in fashion and remains to be an iconic movement for women. Since then, power dressing is continuously changing, contextualising with styles and seasons.
From well-dressed politicians to the silver screen sirens, the suit has been admired by all. With Hollywood innovators such as Katherine Hepburn and Marlene Dietrich embracing suits with wide-legs and shoulder pads. Not forgetting the first lady Hillary Clinton who sported a trouser ensemble for her White House portrait.
We have most certainly come a long way from those times. Women and fashion are no longer constrained to the opinions of others. As Donna Karen said “We have come a long way, power dressing is now designed to let the woman inside us come through.” The sensible suit is daring to venture further now, pushing boundaries and exceeding its once boring reputation. There is no need to restrict your suit to just the boardroom. Wear your suit to suit you. The possibilities are endless.
The Tom Ford Spring/ Summer 2018 collection encapsulates the contemporary suit by incorporating innovative fabrics and textures to classic shapes. With contrasting silk shawl lapels to create a feminine sensuality and strong shoulders to enhance an elegant silhouette. Along with a classic Tom Ford tailored jacket and trouser reinvented in raw denim to give a sophisticated edge.