Bespoke is defined as something which is exclusively made, uniquely for the individual. Bespoke tailoring can be considered the paramount of luxury clothing. The majority of today’s men generally wear made-to-measure or ready-to-wear clothing, with only a minority who purchase bespoke clothing that is made by a tailor. Yet over two centuries ago, every garment was hand-made. We delve deeper into the evolution of bespoke clothing which once existed as a conventional trade being widely available, to now being a service symbolic of sheer luxury and wealth.

Bespoke tailoring is the traditional method of making clothes by hand, with the guidelines of an individual pattern. A pattern reflects the plan for the various parts of a garment which is created on the basis of body measurements and asymmetrical shapes of the individual’s body. However the term “bespoke” is often misused in the industry with brands offering services that allude to bespoke but fail to comply with the actual art form. Some may say bespoke tailoring is an investment which is considered to last a life-time and ultimately deter you from ever buying off-the-peg.

In the late 15th century, Robert Baker established the first tailoring business located in Picadilly, London. He soon became the suit-maker to King James I and as tradition, craftsmen alike congregated together in the surrounding area. The renowned  Savile Row is now the global epicentre of British menswear. By the 19th century, the West End of London was full of bespoke tailors and cloth merchants. Being the capital of the first world at that time, English fashions and specifically British cloth was deemed the predominate source of style by internationals. 

 

The common trade of tailoring decreased over time due to the reliance on machinery and mass production but has seen a colossal resurgence in recent years. In hind-sight, modern-day individuals are more conscious of the amenities that exist and are equally as disposed towards investing in the highest of quality.

 

Notes meets with Dennis Walter from Sons of Saville Row to discuss the intricate facets of bespoke tailoring. Sons of Savile Row is a bespoke tailor based in Düsseldorf, Germany. They specialise in the next generation of tailoring and are in partnership with in-house influencers who capture global trends to incorporate with their bespoke fashions.

 

N: Why invest in a bespoke suit?

DW: There are only two reasons to buy bespoke: This is for the fit and for the quality

 

N: From your styling career at Sons of Saville Row, do you think bespoke tailoring is now appealing to a new generation?

DW: Yes, certainly so! More and more men are increasingly paying attention to their appearance and are considerate of how others perceive them. Most of our clients frequently visit us for upcoming weddings, some who are even wearing a full suit for the first time in years. I would confidently say that at least eight out of ten of them return for another jacket or may even add shirts to their collection. There’s a special satisfaction gained when indulging in tailored clothing. As a side effect of today’s social tendency to praise individualism, our clients seek to stand out from the crowd- not so much by turning to over exaggerative garments or fabrics but more so taking pride in something that is made uniquely for them. This is a garment that they have designed and co-created.

 

N: What is the main difference between a made-to-measure and a bespoke suit? 

DW: The main difference lies in the fact that bespoke means that the pattern from which your clothing is cut, this is individually designed by a tailor and therefore is unique to accommodate your individual physique. Whereas for a made-to-measure-suit, there is a standard pattern used to cut the cloth, with adjustments being made to certain measurements that only cater to deviations from the standard sizing. To illustrate the difference: you can easily alter the length of a sleeve in a made-to-measure suit to reflect on different arm lengths, but only bespoke will give you the option to alter the angle at which the sleeve joins the armhole, its circumference and the diameter of the upper arm section.

 

N: What impact do you think tailored clothing has, for example a well-fitted suit on an individual and also people’s perception of you?                                   

DW: Tailored clothing, in my perspective has an immense impact on the individual. It accurately conveys how you perceive yourself and how you want others to perceive you. When wearing a perfectly tailored suit, I personally feel strong and invincible. It gives me confidence and comfort. I have first-handedly actually experienced the shift in perception a million times over and over. People just treat you differently. I haven’t quite established what it is yet, but it’s almost as if they gain a new respect for you and take you so much seriously. This is all quite frankly the result of what a well tailored suit expresses to the world. This is a man that takes things into his hands, is ahead of his game, confident and self-conscious without being arrogant.